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Update on #1 Green

#1 and #16 Green 7.21.16


It has been exactly two months since my last post about #1 Green. The first round of flooding in April and May of this year did not kill #1 Green. We actually had it ready to open for Member/Guest at the beginning of June. However, the next round of flooding was so severe that it not only killed the turf on #1 Green, but also #16 Green and our nursery greens. Our plan is to reseed these greens on August 15th. We hope to have them open and putting well by mid-November. There has been a lot of discussion on whether to sod or seed the greens. Please read the information below to learn more about why we are choosing to plant see over sod.

Plan and Options for Flood Damaged Greens (#1, #16, Nurseries)

Preparation
Whether we sod or seed there are few things that need to be done first. We are already working on several of these items on both #1 and #16.
1.       Prepare the seedbed
a.       Remove remaining algae and sediment.
b.      If seeding, break reak up in any layers and organic matter at surface and lightly till.
c.       If sodding, remove approximately 1 inch of material evenly across entire surface while maintaining contours.
d.      Incorporate soil amendments into soil profile.
2.       Remove bermudagrass contamination
a.       Spray with herbicide.
b.      Physically cut the areas out as deeply as possible.
3.       Ensure proper drainage
a.       Lower collars to allow water to flow freely off the green. On number one, we will be removing a large area around the green and regrading to fix multiple surface drainage issues.
b.      Check existing subsurface drainage.
4.       Return greens to original size
a.       Use probes to determine the original green perimeters.
b.      Spray and strip existing bermudagrass in these areas.
c.       Define new perimeters and prepare seedbed.
d.      Relocate and adjust irrigation to compensate for larger greens.
Date
Weeks after planting
Playing Conditions
Sod
Seed
15-Aug
Plant
Plant

Week 1


1-Sep
Week 2



Week 3


15-Sep
Week 4



Week 5
Poor

1-Oct
Week 6



Week 7
Fair

15-Oct
Week 8

Poor

Week 9
Good

1-Nov
Week 10

Fair

Week 11


15-Nov
Week 12

Good

 Choosing a planting date
While it can be done, there is really no advantage to planting earlier than August 15th in our area. Sod can be planted earlier than this date, but it will not actively grow until the onset of fall. Seed planted earlier than mid-August will likely begin to establish but then die back before the growing season. In my opinion, the only reason for planting earlier than this date would be if we absolutely must to have the greens open for a specific event. If this is the case, we will sod as soon as possible recognizing that we are reducing our chances for success. Whether we seed or sod, my suggestion is to plant no earlier than mid-August.
Estimated Timeline for Establishment
Typically a sodded green can be considered “playable” 4 to 6 weeks after planting. Seeded greens require more like 10 to 12 weeks before they are established enough to tolerate traffic. Weather conditions and subjective determinations of putting quality will certainly have an impact on timelines.  The table on the right illustrates an estimated timeline and comparison of playing conditions between sodding and seeding (assuming the greens are planted on August 15th).



Advantages, Disadvantages, and Considerations for Sodding vs Seeding
A majority of turf managers would prefer to establish greens from seed rather sod. Seed is less expensive, eliminates potential layering issues in the soil profile, and requires less labor for soil preparation and planting. Greens planted from seed are often more difficult to establish than sod, but typically easier to maintain after the first growing season. So why would we consider sodding greens? Sod can be planted and established much faster, resulting in less downtime to golfers. In addition, courses in northern climates have much shorter growing seasons. The shorter establishment time gives the grass a better chance at surviving the winter months. It is important to note that bentgrass greens established from seed or sod need two complete growing seasons to fully mature. In our situation, we would be looking at fall of 2016 and spring of 2017. 

Advantages to Sodding
·         Reduced downtime – able to play 4 to 6 weeks sooner than seed
·         Perception of instant green
·         Reduced chance of bermudagrass encroachment

Disadvantages to Sodding
·         Finding quality sod
·         Ensuring sod is grown on compatible rootzone
·         Increased preparation of planting site
·         Increased labor for installation
·         Narrow window for delivery (must plant the day it arrives – regardless of weather)
·         Maintaining contours of existing greens is more challenging
·         Cost is much higher – $15,000 to $20,000 to sod #1 and #16. Seeding would be closer to $500
·         Increased aeration and topdressing required after establishment

Additional Considerations
·         Sodding #1 and #16 to a different variety of grass will result in substantial savings. T1 bentgrass will cost approximately $15,000. A1/A4 bentgrass (our current variety) will cost closer $20,000. T1 bentgrass is a proven variety and it is unlikely that golfers will notice a difference in putting quality because of the difference in grass type.  Both seeding and sodding will require labor and materials for preparation, planting, and establishment. These items include: fertilizer, sand, soil amendments, drainage improvements, weed and disease control, cultural practices, etc.  Seeding will allow for the planting of #1, #16, and both nursery greens at the same time. Planting at the same time allows for simplified establishment programs and practices.

Suggested Course of Action
In my opinion, the advantages to seeding outweigh those of sodding – assuming RCC can forego playing on the greens for an additional 6 to 8 weeks. We will use the next few weeks to prepare all four greens for planting. During this time we will fix any drainage issues, determine how far we can expand the greens, remove as much bermudagrass as possible, and prepare the surfaces for planting. Seed will planted no later than August 15th. The newly planted greens will managed as aggressively as possible, sparing no cost for fertilizer, fungicide, etc. By October 15th (8 weeks after planting), we will have a better idea of how soon the greens will be healthy enough to tolerate play. We will consider opening the greens on a limited basis after this date. The ultimate goal will be to have the greens ready for normal play with acceptable putting conditions no later than November 15th. The greens will continue to improve and mature as we have complete two growing seasons (fall 2016 and spring 2017). 


#1 Green 5.21.16

Is #1 Green going to make it? After spending three weeks completely submerged, the flood waters finally receded enough to allow number one green to resurface on May 9th. For the last ten days we have made every effort to give the green the best chance possible for survival. Short term recovery looks to be promising and we are optimistic that the green will not need to be replanted. Hopefully, the green will continue to improve and ultimately will be strong enough survive the hot summer months.
Close up photo of one of one of the weakest areas on the green. Photo taken on 5.21.16

When can play the green again? Currently, we are planning to open the green by June 1st. We will continue to evaluate the green’s progress each day in order to determine whether or not it is healthy enough to tolerate traffic. If we do open the green by this date – it will likely be mowed higher and play differently than the rest of the greens.

What if we have to replant? If the green needs to be replanted we will sod it with grass from our nursery greens. Recovery should take three to four weeks from the time of planting.

What are the long term plans for number one green? The Golf Committee has been researching a multitude of options with regards to long term solutions to the problem of number one flooding. There are many important factors that must be considered before reaching decision, and the Golf Committee will be soliciting the services of a golf course architect to aide in this process. RCC is also planning to complete a property survey that will help us better understand some of these options. The same survey is necessary for completing repairs on holes 15 and 16, and for advancing our golf course maintenance facility improvement plans.   


How does this flood event compare to last year? The green was flooded in a cooler time of year, resulting in much less immediate damage. Last year we were not able to start the recovery process until mid June. Check out the photo comparison below:
2015
2016

#1 Green 4.22.16


#1 Green on 4.21.16

Number 1 green has gone underwater once again. The elevation of Lake Waco rose above 470ft on Monday April 18th. Currently the lake is at 476.55ft - this puts the green about 6.6ft underwater. Obviously, the longer the green stays under - the higher the risk of damage. However, we are optimistic that the green will be OK if the water recedes by early next week. The combination of mild temperatures and springtime growing conditions certainly improves our chances. We have and will continue to discuss potential solutions for this problem. Take a moment to review some of the graphs and photos below to learn more how this green has fared throughout the years. 


  





#1 Green has only been replanted one time in history due to flooding - 2015. Renovations were already under way in 2007 so the green was not damaged at that time. 


#1 Green Spring of 2016
February 2016
Number 1 green is finally on track to return to normal. The last time that it went underwater was Thanksgiving of last year. The flooding last fall did not cause any major damage, but did result in minor setbacks for our grow in. Current weather conditions are ideal for bentgrass growth and recovery. As a result, putting conditions are improving everyday. We are now mowing #1 at the same height as the rest of the greens are using cultural practices such as topdressing, vertical mowing, and aerating to help it perform more like the rest of the regulation greens. I anticipate the biggest difference in play-ability moving forward towards summer will not be putting speed, but how receptive the green is to approach shots. Because the green is so young, there is not much accumulated organic matter or "thatch". Organic matter provides a pad or cushion and helps greens play softer. As the green ages organic matter will accumulate and it will steadily become more receptive. 
#1 Green Fall of 2015
As I mentioned in my October blog post on the main site - we are working hard to get #1 green reopened for play. We have been using a temporary green since the beginning of September. Typically, we figure 10 to 12 weeks before a green is ready for play when planted from seed. We planted the green on September 15 and it is growing in quite nicely. Now seven weeks old we are starting to prepare it for regular play. The grass is healthy and the ball rolls fairly well, however there is very little thatch, or organic layer present in the top couple of inches. Too much thatch is certainly a bad thing, and is one of the biggest reasons why aerating and topdressing greens is critical. That said, a certain amount of thatch is necessary in order to handle traffic, be receptive to approach shots, recover from ball marks, promote microbial activity, and more. As the green matures the amount of thatch will inevitably increase, and our job is to maintain at the proper level. We will be closely monitoring #1 green and continuing our efforts to get back in play as soon as possible. At the earliest, we are looking at an opening date somewhere around Thanksgiving. We will not open the green if we feel that traffic from play will cause negative long term effects. The most likely scenario is that we will open #1 sometime in the next two to three weeks, and limit play to only a couple of days per week. Check out some of the photos below for more information. Scroll further down the page to learn more about why this green had to be replanted. 

Removing bermudagrass contamination prior to planting.

Bermudagrass contamination was controlled both with herbicide and through physical removal.
Prior to planting sand was added and packed to the contaminated areas.
Multiple passes with a spiker and drag mat were used to break up any layering left over from old plant material and to smooth the surface.
Fertilizer and other amendments were also worked into the soil profile prior to planting
After all grading was complete, the seed was planted. The seed was pressed into the soil surface using the tires on our spiker.
After planting the seed was watered lightly and frequently for about two weeks.
1 week after planting the seed as already germinated.
10 days after planting the green was mowed for the first time. 
For the next 40 days the green was mowed more frequently and the height of cut was steadily lowered. In addition, frequent applications of fertilizer and topdressing took place. Picture taken on 11.5.15 - 50 days after planting.
Ruby and Roxy keep an eye on Lake Waco. Fortunately, even with all the recent rainfall #1 has remained above water - for now......
#1 Green Summer of 2015
View of #1 1 Green on 7.19.15
We opened #1 Green for the WTGA State Women’s Amateur Championship. The green handled the traffic fairly well and putted smooth enough to keep it in play as a regulation green for the duration of the 5 day event. As planned, this green is now open for  member play - if you so choose. It is obviously not in great condition, however it putts much better than it looks (and certainly putts better than a temporary green). The ball actually rolls pretty well, especially in the morning. The putting surface is pretty much a combination of live bentgrass (young plants established from seed after the flood), dead bentgrass (from the flood), and sand (to help the ball roll smooth). The lack of a dense
Close up of #1 Green showing bentgrass planted after the flood
stand of turfgrass results in reduced tolerance to traffic. As such, by mid to late afternoon footprints and ballmarks will be more likely to impede ball roll. Please limit traffic and do your best to smooth your ball marks. Currently we are using a combination of brushing, rolling, and mowing to help keep the green putting as smooth as possible. Our plan is keep #1 green open until mid-September. At this time temperatures should be cool enough to establish bentgrass from seed. The green will be closed for 6 to 10 weeks while we complete this process. The green will putt much better by late Fall, and should be the same as the rest of the greens by Spring of 2016.

In summary, we will do our best to keep #1 putting as smooth as possible, and members will have the option of playing #1 Green until mid-September when cooler temperatures return. At this time the green will close again and so that we can reseed the green. After the seed is established (6 to 8 weeks after planting) we will reopen the green for play. I have been getting a ton of questions from golfers about #1 Green. Please take a moment to read the information below:

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS ABOUT #1 GREEN

Why not just plant it to bermudagrass?
There are several reasons why this would not be a wise decision. The simplest is that bermudagrass greens are established from sprigs and require 8 to 12 weeks to grow in. By the time a bermudagrass green would be ready to play on, it would be cool enough to reseed to bentgrass.

Why not sod the green to bentgrass?
Bentgrass sod is expensive, difficult to find, and would take several weeks before it would be smooth enough to putt on. In addition, sodding has the potential to create layers in the soil profile resulting in poor drainage and air movement. It is also too hot to plant bentgrass sod this time of year. Sodding is an option but RCC is much better off waiting to reseed the green than attempting to sod. Reseeding is a fairly simple process, similar to overseeding a bermudagrass green. The contours will remain the same and no major construction will need to take place.

Do we have to rebuild the whole green?
No. The infrastructure on the green is fine. We only need to replant the green not rebuild it. Rebuilding the green would be a much more expensive and time consuming process that would likely result in #1 green being closed late next spring.  

Can we move #1 Green to higher ground?
Yes. However, this would likely require a major construction project. The green goes under water when the lake rises to 470ft (about 8ft above normal). In recent years we have seen lake levels as high as 488ft (1991), 486ft (2007), and 479ft (2015). In order to keep #1 Green from going under water we would have to raise it substantially. The question then becomes how high is high enough. Damage to the green is much more likely when it goes under water for extended periods of time during the summer months. Over the last 15 years this has only happened twice: 2007 and 2015.



Are we hurting the green by opening it?
No. There is not enough viable plants remaining on the green for it to recover without replanting. Basically, we will have to replant either way. The goal was to get enough seed established that the surface would hold together enough to tolerate moderate amounts of traffic. As the long as the surface of the green remains stable enough for play we will keep the green open until September. If we determine that it simply cannot take traffic, then we will close the green earlier or reduce play to only a few days a week.

Are there any positives about #1 Green?
Yes! One bright side to #1 Green is that we have an excellent opportunity to eliminate weeds within the green. This is especially true for controlling bermudagrass contamination. Currently we are spraying glyphosate (Round Up) on the green to eliminate any bermudagrass. The Round Up will also kill any bentgrass that it comes in contact with, however since we are replanting the bentgrass this is not an issue. In addition to weed control, we are going to thoroughly inspect the subsurface drainage within the green. If we discover any major problems, we have an excellent opportunity to fix them before replanting.

Photos of #1 Green
Water rising near the green on 5.26.15
Water rising near the green on 5.26.15
It's out there somewhere! Debris collects on #1 fairway. 6.1.15
Plugs were pulled from the green using a kayak on 6.9.15
Plugs were replanted in a container to see if viable plants still remained after 14 days under water
View of the green on 6.14.15 after silt was removed. 
Removing silt from the green on 6.13.15
Removing silt from the green on 6.13.15. 
Jacob Heppell aerating the green in an attempt to provide air to remaining roots
The green was spiked, aerated and reseeded on 6.14.15
The green was spiked, aerated and reseeded on 6.14.15
New seedlings beginning to germinate on 6.17.16
Duane Kemp checking for new growth on 6.17.15
A view through the microscope looking at new seedlings
Jacob Heppell using a hand drag to lightly work topdressing sand into the green on 6.23.15
More aeration and more seed on 6.23.15
Working in the new seed and sand
Randy Stewart lightly aerating the green prior to mowing and rolling on 7.2.15 
#1 Green on 7.18.15 prior to practice rounds for the WTGA Championship
#1 Green on 7.18.15 prior to practice rounds for the WTGA Championship
Green dye was applied to the gree to help give it a little color for the WTGA Championship.




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